Titanium vs. Hardened Titanium: The Watch Industry’s Secret Weapon Explained
- Smallseconds Watch Reviews
- Jul 16
- 3 min read
If you're even a little into watches, you've probably heard the buzz about titanium. It’s the metal that feels like air, wears like armor, and gives steel some serious side-eye. But lately, a new hero has emerged: hardened titanium. It's titanium that’s been treated to become even more scratch-resistant and durable. It's the Iron Man suit of watchmaking, and it’s popping up in more and more timepieces. So, what exactly is hardened titanium? How do brands toughen up an already tough metal? And which watches are flexing this futuristic alloy? Let’s break it down in a way that works for us with a degree in metallurgy.
What’s So Great About Titanium?
Titanium has been a favorite in aerospace and medical industries for decades, and for good reason. It's about 45% lighter than stainless steel, corrosion-resistant, hypoallergenic, and strong enough to take a beating. Perfect for a watch, right? Well, kind of. Standard titanium (often grade 2 or grade 5 in watches) is softer than stainless steel, so you can see how that would be problematic. That means it can scratch more easily that the 316L watches. Your titanium diver might survive a plunge into the ocean, but it might not survive your car keys. Possible answer? Hardened titanium.
How Do You Harden Titanium?
Watchmakers typically use a surface-hardening process to toughen titanium. There are a few ways to do it, but one of the most common methods is something called DLC, or "Diamond-Like Carbon" coating, or plasma electrolytic oxidation, sometimes under brand-specific names. But some companies take it a step further and harden the titanium itself and not just coat it. Here is the simplest way to understand it:
Start with titanium alloy-Usually Grade 5, which already has great strength.
Heat it or treat it–The titanium is heated or exposed to a chemical process that changes its outer surface. Think of it like a crust forming on bread in the oven.
Hardened surface layer–This creates a shell that’s up to 4x harder than stainless steel, while still keeping that feathery titanium feel.
This means a watch can now be light, strong, and scratch-resistant which is a pretty sweet combo.
Who's Using Hardened Titanium?
Several watch brands have jumped on the hardened titanium bandwagon, and they're putting their own spin (and names) on the tech.
Citizen – Super Titanium™
Citizen was one of the early pioneers, using a process called Duratect. It involves surface hardening through ion plating and other treatments that create an ultra-hard finish, around 1,200 Vickers, compared to steel's ~200. Their Promaster series and even some dress watches use this tech, and they feel insanely light on the wrist.
Grand Seiko – High-Intensity Titanium
Grand Seiko uses its proprietary hardened titanium alloy, which it calls “high-intensity titanium.” It’s used in both sports models and the beloved “Snowflake” SBGA211.
The finish looks very much like stainless steel, but you can tell the difference the moment you pick it up.
RZE – UltraHex Coating
Microbrand RZE has carved out a niche with ultra-tough tool watches using hardened titanium with what they call UltraHex, which is a coating that resists scratches up to 1,200 Vickers. The durability of these watches is one of the main reasons we carry them in our online store, and the RZE Resolute is great for adventurers who want lightweight and rugged gear without dropping four figures.
Damasko – Ice-Hardened Titanium
German brand Damasko, known for their insane case tech, has also begun experimenting with hardened titanium to create watches that are almost indestructible. While they’re better known for hardened steel, their approach to titanium is just as hardcore.
But Why Does It Matter?
To the average person, a few scratches might not be a big deal. But for watch enthusiasts (and anyone who loves things that last), hardened titanium can be a game-changer.
Titanium can keeps watches looking newer for longer, maintain lightness and comfort, and it opens up new possibilities for rugged sports watches and luxury models.
Hardened titanium is one of those low-key innovations that makes a big impact. It’s not as flashy as a tourbillon or a moonphase, but it makes your daily-wearer better. And for those of us who appreciate both form and function, that’s what modern watchmaking is all about.
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